Style of Record looks at the interplay between music and fashion, two forces that continually inspire one another. From the runway to the record sleeve, this series uncovers how style and sound shape identity and culture.
Olivier Rousteing finds his genius in music. In fact, the thread that holds style and sound together has long been the headlining act of his creative direction at Balmain.
For his Spring 2019 collection, the fashion designer brought the thrill of pop to Paris Fashion Week Men’s in a love letter to one of the most defining and polarizing figures of the 20th century: Michael Jackson.
Rousteing mixed the best of French style and American pop culture in 100+ dazzling looks that nodded to Jackson’s iconic style, more specifically from the early 1980s to the mid-1990s. And true to a Jackson-flavored fête, nothing was left to chance. Every detail was carefully amplified to its maximum degree, catering to the most discerning eyes and ears in the fashion crowd.
The show’s opener was the driving beat of Bad, the 1987 hit single from Jackson’s seventh studio album and final collaboration with producer Quincy Jones.
With Bad, the singer marked a seismic shift in his musical style, image, and influence, moving away from the groove-based, post-disco artist to the edgier, bad-boy persona. Rousteing spoke to WWD about the underlying concept behind his collection, describing it as “preppy goes crazy,” a good-boy-gone-bad metaphor that creatives use to express a sense of redirection.
Perhaps unintentional (but hopefully not so), the collection’s story arc also mirrors the song’s themes of defiance and self-assurance against signs of adversity. This tension manifested on the runway in crisp tailoring, sleek leathers, and shiny metallics paired with the rugged energy of shredded denim, intricate mixed-media pieces, and cascading hemlines.
Many of Jackson’s popular stage costumes and music video looks made their way to Balmain’s SS19 collection. The most recognizable has to be his signature sock and penny loafer look. This contrasting white-and-black combo was first seen during the singer’s 1983 ‘Billie Jean’ performance in the Motown 25 television special — a deliberate fashion choice to highlight the footwork of Jackson’s career-defining Moonwalk debut.
Another notable rendition of quintessential MJ style was Rousteing’s modern take on the popular red Thriller jacket. The designer reinterpreted the look in double-breasted leather jackets, embellished knitwear and tweeds, as well as angular shoulder pads and V-sharp details.
He also reimagined the King of Pop’s iconic album covers. In a classic fashion-does-music move, the Bad cover turned into Balmain-branded graphic T-shirts and tailored blazers, while dark hoodies and knitwear got the surreal fantasy treatment á la Dangerous.
Fashion’s creative marriage with music is not new. Rousteing joins a select group of designers and fanatics who look to their favorite music heroes for everyday style inspiration. But it was, in fact, his and Jackson’s shared love for militarism that truly pulled together this wonderful meeting of minds.
The Balmain SS19 show culminated in portrayals of Jackson’s military jackets, knee pads, and shin guards with the help of sequins, metallic appliqués, and oversized pyramid studs.
A closer look, and one could argue that even the Scream video costumes poked through. Whether deliberate or not, Michael loved a good cliffhanger ending—we’re sure he would’ve approved.
Photos: Monica Feudi
