Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Month brought changes in creative leadership, along with the return of fun fashion on the runway with 1980 references, bold colors, vintage-inspired florals, and star accessories.
This past fashion month, according to popular consensus, was one of the most exciting in recent memory. Even before its start, the fashion community was buzzing with anticipation, following the industry’s recent musical-chairs-swapping of creative directors. To be more specific, this season’s showings would see the debut collections of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, to name a few. Despite the myriad leadership changes, there were still several points of commonality that emerged as the month progressed and, per usual, revealed a few of the most prevalent trends that we can expect to dominate the spring and summer in 2026.
1980s Silhouettes
After the silhouettes of the 1970s and 1990s dominated the trend cycles of the past few years, it appears that the 1980s are now making a comeback as well.
Another storied label to see its creative director role change hands before this season was Versace. Taking over from Donatella Versace was Dario Vitale, who, in his debut collection, referenced the ‘80s in several ways.
There were vibrantly color-blocked suits, oversized shoulder pads, and large gold-buckle belts. A clear homage to the early work of Gianni Versace, a few draped, belted midi-dresses with bedazzled diamond patterns that looked like they could’ve easily been featured in the classic 1988 film Working Girl, were clear standouts.
Saint Laurent was another brand to adopt ‘80s styles. This was particularly evident in the knee-length leather pencil skirt-suits, oversized pussy-bow blouses, and, again, voluminous shoulders.
Despite not having a show this season, Gucci, now being led by Demna, also tapped into the decade with its looks in a short film-style preview. This could be seen via the luxe faux furs and oversized, slightly boxy structures.
Color Blocking
Shrugging off the neutral tones and “quiet luxury” aesthetic that dominated the past few years, several labels showcased vibrant collections with abundant color blocking. Perhaps the most notable of these was Prada. Although Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have never been ones to shy away from using color, this season they fully embraced it. Several of their looks featured brightly-colored base layers paired with leather gloves, nylon jackets, or bubble-hem skirts in equally flamboyant yet contrasting tones.
Unsurprisingly, Prada’s little sister brand, Miu Miu, also brought color blocking back to the fore. Vibrant knits, dresses, and separates made their way down the runway, but all under neutral cotton or leather aprons.
Alaïa approached the trend in a more futuristic fashion. For example, neutral, structured tops and coats were paired with jewel-tone thigh-high fringed boots, while cropped leather blouses were contrasted with asymmetric midi skirts in neon hues.
Statement Bags
This season, accessories were the stars of the show. Several brands sent models down the runway wielding bags that, though pushing the limits of practicality, were nothing short of bold and beautiful.
Fendi was perhaps the biggest perpetrator of this trend. In homage to the spring season, the Rome-based brand showcased a variety of signature “Baguette” bags, encased in pastel-colored beads, arranged in floral patterns, and oversized totes constructed of vibrant strips of leather. The stars of their accessories show, however, were their reimagined “Peekaboo” bags, which were outlined with multi-colored fur and slightly opened to expose the intricately beaded interiors.
In his debut show for Chanel, Matthieu Blazy not only made waves with his fresh take on the Parisian house’s signature codes but also with his standout handbag display. Alongside a shocking suite of leather and metal bags, deliberately designed to look like disheveled versions of the “Classic Flap” bag, Blazy created a few especially notable minaudiere bags. Dazzling spectators, these appeared in the shape of a planet, an egg, and a Chanel box.
Bold Textures
Over-the-top textures appeared to be another staple of the season. For her first collection for Bottega Veneta, Creative Director Louise Trotter featured this trend in nearly all of her looks. Naturally, there were pieces, including long trenches, loose-fitting blouses, and barrel-leg trousers that were constructed out of the label’s signature Intrecciato woven leather.
There were also boldly-fringed coats and vests, ruched leather dresses, and, perhaps the most viral of them all, skirts and blouses constructed out of voluminous, iridescent recycled fiberglass that bounced with each step the models took.
At Chanel, standout pieces included low-waisted maxi skirts laden with a chaotic, but captivating blend of fringe and fabric flowers. Likewise, at McQueen, 3-D florals dominated. Cropped knitwear pieces covered in crocheted multi-color flowers brought a spring flair to the collection, while oversized strapless bubble-hem gowns cascaded down the runway.
Vintage-Style Florals
By now, anyone even mildly interested in fashion is familiar with the notoriously sarcastic Miranda Priestly quote from The Devil Wears Prada, “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” However, the florals this season might’ve been more intriguing than Ms. Priestly might’ve assumed. Specifically, there appeared to be a through-line through several shows of vintage-inspired florals.
Chloé’s collection featured several sundresses and blouses printed with 80s-style florals. The ruched fabric undoubtedly drove home the vintage inspiration of the garment, but the print looked as though it stepped straight out of the glamour of ‘80s Palm Beach.
Miu Miu looked a little further back in time for their floral prints. Models appeared in mini dresses constructed out of a white quilted, slightly shiny fabric, printed with small pink roses, akin to what can only be described as the fabric of a 1960s housecoat.
Valentino looked even further back into the past, to the 1920s, for their floral inspiration. In particular, Creative Director Alessandro Michele appeared to reference the decade with his beaded dresses and blouses. The symmetrical, cascading beaded flowers that adorned the garments looked as though they had come straight out of an Erté illustration.
Despite the numerous changes in creative leadership this past fashion month, points of commonality still emerged from nearly every collection. Across the runways of New York, London, Paris, and Milan, designers all seemed to be striving to bring the fun back to fashion for the Spring/Summer 2026 season. Whether it was through the use of bolder textures, bags, or colors, or even referencing the striking styles of the ‘80s, they presented consumers with a suite of trends that were more vivid and dynamic than those seen over the past couple of years. It appears that the demure, neutral tropes of the “quiet luxury” era are now in the rearview mirror, as fashion enters a more vibrant and ostentatious era.
