Alexander McQueen transformed the runway. He turned his shows into mystifying works of fashion theatrics that are studied and celebrated today. Case in point: Joan, his Autumn/Winter 1998 collection. Inspired by the life and death of Joan of Arc, the show captivated the crowd with McQueen’s melding of medieval references with brutal beauty, casting models as warrior saints and sacrificial icons.
“I’ve always looked to a stronger woman for inspiration, and you can’t get much stronger than the head of an army,” McQueen told Style.com’s Tim Blanks in 2014. “I wanted to find out more about her than the myth. I wanted to find out about the mentality of the woman that makes someone do something like that. I had to do something that gave me the reason why I’m in fashion in the first place.”
McQueen collaborated with makeup artist Val Garland and hairstylists Guido Palau (female models) and Mira Chai Hyde (male models) to create the looks that would transcend as storytelling devices. “Lee described the set to me …something about cloning everyone,” Palau shared with Blanks. “It was sort of meant to be like, I suppose, a cross between sort of Medieval going into sort of futurist.”
Many of the models’ faces were completely hidden with fabric. Some had bleached eyebrows or had them covered with makeup and wore bald caps, save for strategically placed faux braids dramatically draped on top of their heads. Others showcased sculptural platinum blonde wigs, which provided an androgynous Medieval feel.
The most haunting feature of the show’s makeup was the models’ crimson eyes, courtesy of red contact lenses and red-colored mascara. The off-putting eye color caused quite the stir and lent the show its haunting, ethereal vibe.
“The show is my personal thing that rocks my world. It’s why I started in fashion, and it’s why I got a bad name in the beginning. But, you know, you have to push boundaries. Otherwise, you’re not gonna move ahead,” McQueen stated.
The beauty of Joan wasn’t about trends — it was about emotion, conviction, and transformation. It continues to influence artists and designers who push beyond conventional prettiness into something spiritual and unsettling. McQueen didn’t just design clothes — he conjured beauty that haunted you.
