Over the past few years, vintage luxury shopping has experienced something of a renaissance. Celebrities and their stylists are reaching far into the vintage closet, and we’re all taking notes. We’ve seen countless celebrities, from Zendaya to Margot Robbie, donning archival garments on red carpets and press tours, so it’s easy to see why luxury vintage is having a moment. Vintage luxury’s liveliest conversation almost always centers on handbags. More universally wearable than most designer archival clothing, bags from past eras have become some of the most coveted pieces on the resale market.
For instance, with the return of early 2000s aesthetics, demand for the Fendi Baguette bag, which debuted in 1997, skyrocketed. Rare versions of the bag began selling for thousands and were spotted on the arms of various pop culture personalities, including Bella Hadid and Lily Collins. More recently, Kim Kardashian posted a video unboxing an early model ruby red 2001 Hermès Birkin, designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, before the designer’s tenure at the house, which began in 2003. Almost instantly, the dedicated crowd of vintage Birkin lovers went to work tracking down similar bags.
As a result of these celebrity endorsements and the saturation they achieve on social platforms, vintage Birkin and Baguettes, as well as Gucci Jackies and Chanel Classic Flaps, have come to dominate the vintage bag scene. As a result of these celebrity endorsements and the saturation they achieve on social platforms, vintage Birkin and Baguettes, as well as Gucci Jackies and Chanel Classic Flaps, have come to dominate the vintage bag scene. But beyond these headline-making icons, there’s a deep bench of vintage designer bags that match their famous “cousins” but outdo them in uniqueness.
Let’s take a look at a few of the most underrated luxury bags of the past that should be on your radar.
Celine Boogie
Perhaps one of the most playful finds in the vintage bag world right now is the Celine Boogie bag. This rectangular, top-handle bag debuted in 2002 during Michel Kors’ tenure as creative director. Although it was sported by the likes of Madonna and Charlize Theron, and even featured on the arm of Charlotte York in Sex and the City, it failed to achieve true “it-bag” status.
Despite this, its simple structure, durable leather body, and multitude of pockets make it undeniably practical. And, coming in a variety of bright candy colors and unique fabrics, from ostrich skin to pony hair, there’s no denying the Boogie’s timeless charm.
Chloé Silverado
There may never again be a bag that’s as cool as the Chloé Silverado. Brought to life by Phoebe Philo in 2004, during her tenure at Chloé, the Silverado was never meant to fly under the radar, but, unfortunately, did. Overshadowed by the brand’s smash-hit Paddington bag, which debuted just a year later, the Silverado has a wholly distinct silhouette.
A shoulder bag by design, its long straps and side pockets feature whipstitching details, often in a different color than the body of the bag, and it’s studded with burnished hardware. The ‘70s rockstar of the vintage bag world, it can be sourced in various materials from metallic leathers to luxurious pythons.
Gucci Indy
Of course, everyone knows about the notorious Gucci Jackie bag, named after the celebrated Jackie Kennedy Onassis. But you probably haven’t heard of Jackie’s rebellious younger sister, the Indy bag. First featured in a 2006 runway show, while the brand was being led by Frida Giannini, the Indy combined house codes with bohemian aesthetics to create a truly unique bag.
While the bag’s molded wooden handle pays homage to Gucci’s classic bamboo handle bags, the tassels, slouchy structure, and bold hardware take inspiration from the styles of the early aughts. Available in a wide range of colors and textures (see Jennifer Lopez carrying a metallic version and Blake Lively toting around a zebra-print iteration on the set of Gossip Girl), it’s easy to see how the Indy is a timeless, boho icon in its own right.
Fendi Oyster
One of the most famous and beloved bags of all time is, without a doubt, the Fendi Baguette bag. Naturally, considering the Baguette’s overwhelming popularity, it’s easy to see how the brand’s other bags could be overshadowed. This is definitely the case for the lesser-known Fendi Oyster bag.
Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi for the Spring/Summer 2002 collection, the Oyster was undoubtedly a hit. It appeared in several magazines that same year and was admired for its distinct curved shape and the broad range of colors, materials, and patterns. One version came covered in chunky, yet incredibly chic wood panelling. A statement piece for sure, the Oyster is a bag with undeniable personality and a distinct artistic identity.
Chanel Mademoiselle
Just as Fendi has the Oyster bag, so too does Chanel have the Mademoiselle bowling bag. Often overlooked in favor of the Classic Flap bag, the Mademoiselle bag debuted in 2011 during Karl Lagerfeld’s legendary reign at the house. Although it still bears many of the same features as its older, more popular sister, such as the quilted leather exterior and chain straps, its structure is wholly unique.
With a smooth, curved top and smaller, rectangular design, it’s playful, timeless, and practical. And despite some versions adorned with a Chanel interlocking “C” charm on the end of one strap, it’s still a more subtle, understated nod to the brand than some of their more renowned bags. Coming in a range of colors from youthful pastels to more sophisticated neutrals, it’s an underrated classic with an adorable flair.
Even though they come from some of fashion’s most storied houses, these vintage bags remain surprisingly under-the-radar on today’s resale market. Although there is certainly nothing wrong with lusting after the more popular styles, there is a truly special feeling that accompanies carrying a unique piece that fewer people are likely to have. Not only do these underrated bags evoke that feeling, but they also convey a sense of individuality and creativity. And, after all, isn’t that what fashion is all about?
